Landslide in Beauty - La Valtellina
THE VALLEY
Valtellina has a majestic landscape full of unique and breathtaking beauties, from the Stelvio Park, the largest and oldest park in Italy, to the natural sources of thermal water in the Bormio area, founded in the pre-Roman era. It is a rocky area where the great Italian craftsmanship continues to cultivate its fruits and carries the tradition. As William Blake recalls: "When men and mountains meet, great things happen.” Hence the wine..
We are in Lombardy, in the area of Sondrio, in the northern part of the Italian peninsula bordering Switzerland. Valtellina is an Alpine valley where splendid vineyards rise on the slopes of the mountains making space between rocks and debris. The vineyards, facing south, are steep, precipitous and seem to fall into the Adda river. For this reason, many vineyards are held together by century-old walls. It is the most terraced area in Italy and also part of the UNESCO heritage site. In this rugged land, locals practice “heroic viticulture.” In fact, the grapes and the earth are transported in baskets loaded on shoulders at almost 1.000 m of height. In addition, the rows are worked manually. A high amount of work may require a rail system to transport materials, a method similar to the German cousins in the Mosella area.
THE WINES
The main grape of the Valtellina Docg is Chiavennasca (Nebbiolo) followed by Rossola, Vignola and Brugola. All four vines are considered autochthonous. Specifically the three companion vines of Chiavennasca are known to confer respectively acidity, color and high production. The grapes grown on the Rhaetian side have 850 hectares of land available and are considered unique thanks to an exceptional microclimate, where light and sun play a fundamental role. The fine wines of the Valtellina Superiore Docg grow in the area between Buglio in Monte and Tirano. To be regulated, they must have 90% of Chiavennasca and have a minimum aging period of 24 months, 12 of which are in barrels, and for the “Riserva,” a total of 36 months of aging. Here we find some of the most renowned sub-areas of the territory - Marroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella. Of the 5 denominations Inferno is certainly the most renowned. With its 55 hectares of hostile land beaten by a scorching sun, it offers wines of great caliber and structure. Sassella takes its name from a small church. It is considered the oldest sub-area of the valley. Valgella is the largest sub-zone and takes its name from "Valgel" which in dialect indicates a set of small streams that descend the valley. The vineyard gives the wines greater softness and guarantees a potential for aging. Grumello, owes its name to the Castle of Grumello which has dominated the valley since the thirteenth century. Grumello is made up of Rossola and Vignola vines. Maroggia is a "modern" sub-area, recognized in 2002. It has a history spanning more than one hundred years linked to the figure of San Benigno de ’Medici. (https://www.assoviuno.com/chi-siamo/le-origini/)
Another great wine comes to life in the Valtellina area: Lo Sforzato di Valtellina Docg. Perhaps it is the “Lombard” version of the Amarone della Valpolicella. Lo Sforzato, or in dialect “Sfursat,” is the result of a careful selection of Chiavennasca grapes which are hung or placed on racks for a duration of 4 months. Toward the end of January the grapes lose 40% of their weight and the concentration of the juices has grown exponentially. At this point the grapes, after being pressed, are aged for 20 months in wood and bottle.
THE TASTING
Pietrisco Docg 2016 Boffalora
A soft shiny red wine that releases notes of pomegranate, wild raspberry and orange peel that convey in a chalky and intensely mineral finish. On the palate, the wine advances rapidly and gives a pleasant mentholated sensation with ferrous returns. It closes quite savory and persistent.
Grisone Sassella Docg 2016 Alfio Mozzi
Ruby red in color, it immediately invites you to bring it closer to your nose. A big bang of ripe red fruit! It’s like putting your nose in a basket of freshly picked fruit after a walk in the mountains. The silky and elegant tannins act as companions to acidity and softness revealing a wine of structure and persistence. At the end it surprises with a trail of sweet spices that invades the retro-nasal cavity.
Valtellina Superiore 2013 La Spia
It shines in a bright red coat showing a light garnet hue at the edges of the glass. A wine worthy of a Pollock painting done by mastering the "drip technique,” throwing crisp red and black fruits on a pumice stone canvas with a granite frame. It relaxes the palate by closing quite long and elegant.